Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Hotel Studis, Iasi, Romania:

From Kiev, Ukraine; Bucharest, Romania

The Hotel Studis is very cheap, and clean, and I slept well in it. But there are a few things worth noting...

My room faced a street inhabited by feral dogs. At night, feral dogs bark loudly to express alarm, anger, interest, a desire to communicate with other dogs, joy, curiosity, fear, anything, etc. The dogs were quiet in the morning, which probably emboldened the roosters outside to begin crowing at that time. I slept well anyway thanks to my Anti-Snoring Machine, but the average traveler does not have this luxury, so consider yourself warned.

After dark, a journey to one's room begins with a few hesitant steps into a long, pitch-black hallway. One feels along the wall up to the first hotel room door for the switch to turn on the hall light. Activation of that switch is followed by a sinister crackling sound accompanied by stroboscopic bursts of medicinal fluorescent light which illuminate the long hallway like angry lighting before freezing into solid hyper-white. One must walk quickly down that hall, for the lights shut off automatically after a minute, leaving one stranded in absolute darkness.

Upon reaching the room, one hurriedly tries each of the two keys (one key for the alcove, which includes a toilet, shower, and kitchen shared with one other room; and another key for the room itself) in order to get inside before the hall lights go out. One gets in, finds that the alcove light does not work, and rushes to turn on the bathroom light for alternative illumination. One then tries the keys for the bedroom, steps inside, and hits the light switch. The room lights flash on, revealing in crackling bursts a plain room with two beds boasting white sheets, white comforters, and white pillows.

At Hotel Studis, internet is offered, but it is delivered not via wireless but rather by a long, gray cable, which they hand you when you check in.

I was unable to get this cable to work with my laptop, so I requested assistance from the front desk. The guy who showed up to help spoke no English. In fact, he seemed proud of this. He kept shaking his head while emphatically stating, "NU englez!" He said in the Romanian language that he was very sorry (he wasn't), but that there was nothing he could (would) do. I even had to talk him into plugging in the alternative cable he had brought over himself in order to see if the fault lay with the cable I had been given earlier. He was an ass. This was the only truly bad impression the hotel left with me.

The lack of internet was why I left Studis in the morning, because I needed internet to stay in contact with my girlfriend who was in Italy at the time. I moved on to Hotel Continental (view from Hotel Continental in photo above), which had its own internet problems, but which ultimately solved those problems and was overall very awesome.

Hotel Studis is close to the shopping mall and a ton of great student bars and clubs (the richness of clubs here is due to their being alongside student dormatories; Iasi is a big college town). If occasional internet connectivity is all you need, it's worth noting that from Studis you can visit the nearby Motor Club (ask for directions; it's en route to the mall and everyone seems to know where it is). Motor Club is a billiards and ping-pong (!) place, there's free wi-fi there, and you can even plug your power cord into the wall at the table closest to the entrance.

I paid only 101 lei per night for Hotel Studis (this odd price might be based on a calculation of the exact exchange rate between dollar and lei, which at the time was around $3 per lei, so $34 a night; not bad). Indeed, Studis was very affordable, but it also served as a reminder of the gulf that exists between budget hotels in the U.S. and those in Romania.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Backward Romania/Forward Romania


A guy I interviewed for a piece I'm writing told me a joke about Romania: "Worried about 2012? Then come to Romania, because we're a hundred years behind." But in some ways Romania is ahead of the United States. Odd as it sounds, sometimes Romania is even enabled by its backwardness.

For example, the United States has twice as much land line saturation as "backward" Romania. But in part encouraged by this very lack of land lines, "forward" Romania's cell phone market has, like the United States', reached saturation. On average, everyone in Romania has at least one cell phone (the country's telecom companies are very generous about handing out phones to people who sign up for their plans). And in Romania old people really are using those phones. In fact, they're yakking on them during long bus rides all the time. And their ringers are cranked up to deafening levels because they are nearly deaf themselves. I digress.

Romania introduced a "cash for clunkers"-type program (wherein one exchanges one's old and fuel-inefficient car for a down payment on a new car) in 2005, several years before the U.S. tried its own. This program is what contributed to the near-extinction of Romania's classic (and extremely ugly) early Dacia models. Since 2007 I have not seen a single Dacia 500 anywhere (the photo above is of me in 2004 in front of a Dacia 500).

Most Romanians used their "clunkers" money to buy used cars, because new cars are as expensive in Romania as they are in the United States despite Romania being a much poorer country. Used German cars were particularly popular. Germany's used cars entered the Romanian market in part because of Germany's own "clunkers" program. In Germany the "clunkers" were not required to be destroyed as they are in most other countries, so many German cars went from the junkyard to Eastern Europe, where they are being driven by Romanians today.

Unlike the short-lived U.S. program, the Romanian program continues to this day.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

A Collection of Random Observations About Romania That Are Too Underdeveloped to Merit Unique Blog Entries

From Kiev, Ukraine; Bucharest, Romania
  • According to a librarian at a high school in Râmnicu Vâlcea, it is difficult to catch kids plagiarizing reports from the internet because the students generally steal reports written in English and then translate them, thus "laundering" the theft.

  • Increasing numbers of Romanian college students are finding that their degrees are useless outside of their own country, so more and more of them are applying for scholarships in the United States and other countries, which is likely contributing to the growing "brain drain" issue in Romania.

  • Communist traditions still survive: in Râmnicu Vâlcea you can mail an international package only on Wednesday, and from only one particular post office.

  • If you go to a restaurant you're more likely to observe Romanians drinking there than eating and drinking, presumably because it's cheaper to eat at home (but it's nice to go out for a drink).

  • Romanian advertising firms are scarce. Romanians interested in advertising and marketing generally go to other countries. My theory behind this is that after 1989 foreign companies swooped into Romania, and those companies tap their own countries' advertising firms for their marketing needs. TV commercials in Romania are generally generic, Euro commercials, the sort where there is either no speaking, speakers speak off camera, or the lines are dubbed. Unless there are Romanian-made products worth marketing on a large scale within the country, there will not be a demand for Romanian marketing firms.

  • Sighişoara makes a perfect Valentine's Day vacation spot. In addition to being beautiful and boasting many charming hotels, there is a strong "red" theme (red curtains, red candles on tables, etc.). The Valentine's Day connection is accidental, stemming from the fact that the city is Vlad Ţepeş's birthplace, hence a heavy "Dracula" theme that emphasizes all things (blood) red.

  • In a restaurant with candles on tables, with all things being equal (size of tables, number of chairs at tables, and time of placement of candles on tables), the "best" table should be the one with the shortest candle.

  • Racial profiling of gypsies is the norm. When one tried boarding a bus I was on, the driver asked him to produce his ticket (I was not asked to show mine). It worked, since the gypsy did not have a ticket. I guess the question is: Were any non-gypsies on the bus traveling without tickets?

  • The tendency for ATM machines to dispense large bills that no merchant wants to break must be a technique invented by Ukrainians and Romanians to help quickly ID tourists.

  • Iron Maiden is more popular in Romania (and other European countries) today than I remember them being when I was a teenager. Does Iron Maiden have a signature song?

  • Romanians are crazy about pretzels. In Iasi every morning there was a line for pretzels at every place that sold them.

  • Romanians are also crazy about pizza. In some cities literally every other restaurant advertises itself as a "pizzerie."

  • Romanians love old Italian pop music, which plays in many restaurants.

  • Romanians consider a trip to Paris to be an important pilgrimage, since France and Romania were so strongly linked culturally before communism.

  • Embroidered on luggage carried by a Baia Mare couple on train: "A Series of Wiebao Tradelling Bags and Knatsacks."

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Lost Opportunity in Romania


Talk to any Romanian, or at least any of the many Romanians I have talked with, and all will tell you that Romania is a land of lost opportunities. The reason for the loss of those opportunities, most believe, is corruption, which has long been an issue in Romania. The Romanian people believe that their politicians are feathering their own nests rather than investing in the future of the country. Romanians believe that any politician can be--and is--bought, and so nothing improves.

The clearest lost opportunity is in agriculture. It is clearest because the problem can be glimpsed during any intercity train ride.

Romania is blessed with large spreads of fertile land. Farming techniques are charmingly antiquated; shepherds still stand watch over their flocks, sometimes resting one booted foot against the other while leaning on a walking stick. Horse-drawn wagons are a normal sight; carriage wheels criss-cross the tracks of rabbits in the snow.

Which raises an obvious question: Where are the tractors? The seeders? The harvesters and other tools familiar to all FarmVille players?

Yes, it's winter, and in winter there is not a lot of planting or harvesting to be observed. But Romanians will tell you that things don't change in spring or summer. Wikipedia has some footnoted citations about agriculture in Romania regarding the relative scarcity of tractors and the agedness of the equipment currently in use.

Romanians speak of the richness of the soil with pride, as if it were a gift from God. They feel that gift is being squandered by their politicians. It's preventing Romania from moving forward. It's sacrilege.

Some Birds Seen Between 12 and 2 PM Today in Baia Mare, Romania

From Kiev, Ukraine; Bucharest, Romania


Eurasian Bullfinch
Eurasian Jay
Eurasian Nuthatch
Blackbird
Great Tit
Blue Tit
Goldcrest
Eurasian Collared Dove
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
Rock Pigeon

---

Extra - some interesting species from days past

9 February 2010:
Hawfinch, in Sibiu

10 February 2010:
Great Cormorant and Pygmy Cormorant, in Călimăneşti

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Soundtrack to Romania, February 2010

Timbaland feat. Nelly Furtado and SoShy - Morning After Dark
Jay Ko feat. Anya - One
Residence Deejays and Frisco - Sexy Love
Lady Gaga - Bad Romance
One Republic - All the Right Moves
Iyaz - Replay
Dan Bălan - Chica Bomb
Jordin Sparks - S.O.S.
Ke$ha - Tik Tok
The Jimi Hendrix Experience - Hey Joe*
Guess Who - Locul Potrivit
Cascada - Evacuate the Dancefloor

*Played in two different bars in two different cities two nights in a row. Go figure.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Romania: Non-Sweeps Week

From Kiev, Ukraine; Bucharest, Romania
Today I write from a cafe called "The Atrium" in Sibiu. Greatest hits of classical music play on the speakers. I sip on a Carlsberg. It's blue skied and sunny, with temperatures warm enough to compel me to finally ditch my tattered leather-esque jacket (stuffed into a garbage can en route to the Old Town). Sunshine reveals that the main church here has alternating colored shingles which resemble the back of some exotic species of snake (a gaboon viper, perhaps). The back of the black statue in front of the church is spotted with snowballs hurled by students who go to the school facing it. It's really beautiful. Temperatures may sail up to 10 degrees Celsius in the coming days, which means I might need to head north again soon. :-D A return to Kiev, or perhaps a visit to Estonia, which has long held my imagination. But first I must visit my friends in Iasi, something I greatly look forward to.

I am currently reading an amusing detective novel called "She Lover of Death," by a Moscow writer named Boris Akunin, which is set in 1900.

I have some interesting article ideas, and I have lined up interviews for as early as Wednesday this week. More will be revealed when I finish those pieces.

Over the past few days Cristina and I took a whirlwind tour through some of the top cities in Romania, beginning with Cluj-Napoca, then Sighisoara, and finally Sibiu. If you go only to Bucharest you have not seen the best of Romania. These three cities I mention, along with Brasov, should be your top priorities if you come out here. You cannot fail to fall in love with them. But I will always love the grimy rough-and-tumble of Bucharest and Iasi as well. What can I say? I love Romania.

As for the telenovela that is the Bank of America saga, Bank of America froze my credit card, but then unfroze it when I called in a panic after a failure to get cash at Raiffeisen Bank today. Anyway, I have my cash now. But the big news is that Bank of America may have successfully sent a replacement debit card to Bucharest, my friend Razvan informed me a few minutes ago via SMS.

I realize this entry is a basically a list of facts and places, and that my Picasa page has not been updated with the latest images either. Consider this something like a TV episode during a non-sweeps week. It's informative, it provides an update, and it allows you to stay in touch with where this character is right now. But sweeps week will be upon us soon. ;-)